There’s a reason everyone is searching for the recipe. And star chef Kwame Onwuachi’s take on the classic is great for the big game, as well as the aftermath.
(Bloomberg) — Here comes the best snacking day of the year in America, the Super Bowl. But for people in the party food business, the week before is the big one. The seven-day period has been called the “Black Friday” of the snacking industry: Last year, fans bought 112 million pounds of tortilla chips, pretzels, chips and dips in the runup to the game, and sales hit $616 million, according to SNAC International.
While prepackaged dips and chips rule game day, a few dishes demand more attention. Exhibit A: Pigs in a blanket. They have been one of the top five most-searched recipes leading up to Super Bowl LVII, ranking just behind Philly cheesesteaks.
One person who will be making the dish ahead of this year’s game in Glendale, Arizona, on Feb. 12 is star chef Kwame Onwuachi.
“Any excuse to make them, I’m in,” says the chef-owner of the dynamic new New York restaurant Tatiana. He was raised in the city and will not be rooting for either the Philadelphia Eagles or the Kansas City Chiefs. But he used to cook for Rihanna and will be watching her half-time show, her first live performance in five years.
There are, of course, countless pigs in a blanket recipes. Food Network ace Alex Guarnaschelli makes her version with parsley tucked into the pastry blanket and Tabasco stirred into the mustard dip.
Onwuachi’s genius take is based on a recipe from his mother, Jewel Robinson, who ran a catering business. “My mom loved to serve them at events with a Creole mustard sauce that I still make to this day,” says the chef. His take features smoked andouille sausages wrapped inside the flaky pastry. “I grew up eating andouille sausage as a kid. I also was a cater waiter for a while, where pigs in a blanket ran rampant.”
The secret to the most addictive versions, besides making sure the pastry isn’t soggy, is the accompanying sauce. Onwuachi’s spiced up version has a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, Creole mustard and, most importantly, Creole seasoning. Onwuachi uses Kwame’s Mom’s House Spice; it’s from his hit cookbook My America: Recipes from a Young Black Chef, written with Joshua David Stein (Penguin Random House; $35). But you can use a store bought jar of the spice.
The best thing about pigs in a blanket, besides their success on a Super Bowl spread, is that they double as an excellent antidote to the hangovers that invariably follow Super Bowl Sunday. Onwuachi urges people to make extras or hide some unbaked ones in the fridge. “The leftover ones are even better the next day when you need a pick-me-up,” he says. Just quickly warm them on a preheated baking sheet in a hot oven.
As for Rihanna, Onwuachi says she hasn’t come to see him at Tatiana yet. But he might serve these pigs in a blanket next time he sees her. “She would tear these up,” he says.
Creole Pigs in a Blanket
Makes About 30
Pigs in a Blanket
2 large eggs, lightly beaten1 Tbsp milkAll-purpose flour, for dustingOne 1 lb. frozen puff pastry, thawed4 andouille sausage (preferably D’Artagnan) or hot links or your-favorite pre-cooked smoked sausageFlaky salt, preferably Maldon
Creole Mustard Sauce
3 Tbsp mayonnaise 3 Tbsp Creole mustard 1 ½ Tbsp honey1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice2 tsp store bought Creole seasoningKosher salt
Optional garnish: Thinly sliced chives
Prepare the pigs in a blanket. Preheat the oven to 425F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. In a small bowl, beat together the eggs and milk. On a lightly floured work surface, spread out one puff pastry sheet, then cut it in half, so it is as long as the sausage. Refrigerate the pastry you’re not using so it doesn’t get too warm and sticky.
Pat the sausage dry with paper towels. Place one link on the lengthwise edge of the pastry. Brush the last two inches of the end of the pastry with the beaten egg wash, then tightly roll the sausage. Place the wrapped sausage, sealed-side down, on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Freeze until ready to bake. Repeat the process with the remaining pastry sheets and sausage.
Slice the wrapped sausages into 1-inch pieces and arrange them on the parchment-lined baking sheets about 3 inches apart. Be sure to use a sharp knife to prevent stretching the pastry
Brush each piece with egg wash and sprinkle with flaky salt. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until the pastry is crispy and golden brown and the sausages inside are hot. (You can test with a skewer or the tip of a thin, sharp knife.) Rotate the pan as needed to ensure even cooking.
Meanwhile, make the Creole sauce. In a bowl, combine all the ingredients and mix well. Taste, adding additional lemon, honey and salt, as necessary.
To serve, top each pig in a blanket with a small dollop of mustard sauce. If desired, garnish the sauce with chives.
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